Jumping Spider Nutrition in Captivity: An Evidence-Based Feeding Guide

By Haley Burgess, www.littlespiderfriends.com

Introduction

Jumping spiders are often described as tiny predators, and that is true: they need live prey to grow, molt, and survive. But research shows their nutrition is more complex than simply “feed them bugs.” Some jumping spiders eat a wide variety of prey in the wild, and some also feed on nectar or sugar-rich liquids from flowers. This means the best captive diet should include safe live prey, variety, proper prey size, hydration, and occasional nectar-style carbohydrate support.

Jumping Spider with Prey by Dwi Yulianto

This guide focuses mostly on commonly kept Phidippus jumping spiders, such as Phidippus audax, Phidippus regius, and Phidippus johnsoni, but many ideas may also apply to other salticids.

Jumping Spiders Need More Than “Any Bug”

In the wild, jumping spiders are active hunters. They use excellent vision to notice movement, stalk prey, and jump onto it. Nelson et al. explains that jumping spiders have “acute vision and intricate vision-guided prey-capture behaviour” (Nelson et al., 2001).

This matters in captivity because food should not only fill the spider’s abdomen. Food should also support:

• growth

• molting

• energy

• hydration

• hunting behavior

• healthy body condition

A spider fed the same feeder continuously may survive, but survival alone is not the same as balanced nutrition.

What Wild Phidippus johnsoni Eat

One important study by Robert R. Jackson looked at prey eaten by Phidippus johnsoni in the field. Jackson found that P. johnsoni was not a specialist eating only one type of prey. He wrote, “Field data indicate that P. johnsoni is an euryphagous predator” (Jackson, 1977).

“Euryphagous” means it eats a wide variety of prey.

Jackson recorded P. johnsoni eating flies, aphids, caterpillars/moths, bees, ants, beetles, earwigs, harvestmen, and other spiders (Jackson, 1977).

This does not mean captive jumping spiders should be fed wild insects or other spiders. It means their natural diet is varied, so captive diets should also include variety using safe captive-bred feeders.

Variety of Feeders Image source: Josh’s Frogs

Prey Size Matters

One of the most useful husbandry findings from Jackson’s study is about prey size. He wrote, “Prey size tends to be one quarter to three quarters the size of the predator” (Jackson, 1977). A practical captive-care guideline is that most prey should measure about 25-75% of the spider’s body length.

Avoid prey that is:

• larger than the spider

• aggressive

• hard-bodied

• able to bite

• left unattended during premolt

A jumping spider (Phidippus regius) eating its prey cockroach on a green leaf by Jan Rozehnal 

Why Flies Should Be a Major Feeder

In Jackson’s prey table, flies, also called Diptera, were the largest prey group by number. Diptera made up 30.30% of the recorded prey items (Jackson, 1977). This supports using flies often in captivity.

Flies are good feeders because they:

• move naturally

• trigger hunting behavior

• are soft-bodied

• are less likely to injure the spider than crickets

• encourage exercise

• are available in sizes for slings, juveniles, and adults

Many pet keepers rely too heavily on crickets and mealworms. Flies appear to be one of the most natural and useful staple feeders for many jumping spider species.

Fruit Flies: The Best Starter Feeder for Slings

Fruit flies are usually the first feeder for baby jumping spiders, also called slings.

The two most common types are:

Drosophila melanogaster

These are the smaller fruit flies. They are best for:

• i2 slings

• i3 slings

• very tiny species

• newly separated babies

They are usually easier for tiny spiderlings to catch. Petco describes Drosophila melanogaster as commonly cultured fruit flies measuring about 1/16 inch.

Drosophila hydei

These are larger fruit flies. They are best for:

• larger slings

• i3–i6 juveniles

• spiders too large for melanogaster but not ready for bottle flies

They reproduce more slowly than Drosophila melanogaster, but each fly provides more food.

Wingless vs. flightless fruit flies

These terms are often confused. Wingless fruit flies have no usable wings. Flightless fruit flies may have wings, but they cannot fly normally. For jumping spider keepers, both can work, but flightless cultures are the most common.

Image Source: Josh’s Frogs

Where to Get Safe Flies

Buy feeder flies from trusted feeder insect companies, reptile stores, invert breeders, or biological supply companies. Josh’s Frogs sells fruit fly cultures and states that their Drosophila melanogaster cultures are ready to feed shortly after arrival and are kept at recommended temperature and humidity ranges for production.

Common places to look include:

• Josh’s Frogs

• Dubia.com

• Rainbow Mealworms

• local reptile stores

• invert expos

• Carolina Biological or other biological supply companies

• trusted local feeder breeders

Keep multiple cultures if you have many slings. Fruit fly cultures can crash, mold, dry out, or become mite-infested.

Never Feed Wild-Caught Insects

This is one of the most important rules in beginner jumping spider care:

Do not feed wild-caught insects.

Wild insects can carry:

• pesticides

• parasites

• mites

• bacteria

• fungal spores

• unknown toxins

• defensive chemicals from plants they ate

Even if your yard looks safe, insects may have traveled from treated areas. Some wild insects are also dangerous prey. Ants can spray defensive chemicals, beetles can bite, caterpillars may contain toxins, and wild spiders can injure or kill your spider.

Ovipost, a feeder insect company, warns that wild insects may expose pets to diseases, parasites, and pesticides, and recommends store-bought or home-bred feeders instead.

For jumping spiders, this rule is especially important because they are small. A tiny amount of pesticide or a single dangerous prey item could be fatal.

Nectar: The Missing Piece in Jumping Spider Nutrition

For a long time, many people assumed spiders only ate animal prey. But research shows some jumping spiders also feed on nectar.

Nelson et al. studied nectar feeding in jumping spiders and wrote, “Thirty one of the species studied were observed feeding on nectar from flowers in nature” (Nelson et al., 2001). They also found, “All species fed from flowers in the laboratory” (Nelson et al., 2001). This is important because it shows nectar feeding is not just a random accident. It may be a normal behavior in many jumping spiders. Nelson et al. concluded, “Nectar feeding is widespread, if not routine, in this large family” (Nelson et al., 2001).

Jumping Spider (Salticidae) on Pasque Flower (Pulsatilla) exploring blooming petals by Jonas Hanacek

Are They Drinking Water or Eating Sugar?

A good question is: are jumping spiders actually using nectar as food, or are they just drinking it for water?

Nelson et al. tested this by offering jumping spiders two choices: one strip soaked in 30% sucrose solution and one strip soaked in distilled water. The spiders spent more time feeding from the sucrose solution than the water (Nelson et al., 2001). The researchers explained that the importance of sugar in solution to salticids was demonstrated through these choice tests, in which spiders consistently spent more time drinking from the sucrose solution than from distilled water (Nelson et al., 2001). This suggests the sugar content itself is biologically important

The authors also explain, “Nectar is a sugar solution, not simply water” (Nelson et al., 2001). So nectar should be thought of as a carbohydrate source, not just hydration.

Why Carbohydrates May Help Jumping Spiders

A 2022 study by Wiggins and Wilder tested whether liquid carbohydrates helped Phidippus audax, the bold jumping spider. They wrote, “We tested if an actively hunting predator, the jumping spider, Phidippus audax, benefited from liquid carbohydrates when prey were not limited” (Wiggins & Wilder, 2022).

In the study, spiders were fed live Drosophila melanogaster fruit flies with different nutrient profiles. Half of the spiders also received a 20% sucrose solution (Wiggins & Wilder, 2022).

The results were important, “Spiders reared on high-protein diets with carbohydrates were larger and heavier than spiders on other treatments” (Wiggins & Wilder, 2022).

They also found, “Access to carbohydrates also increased percent body fat and survival across prey treatments” (Wiggins & Wilder, 2022).

Their conclusion is one of the most useful quotes for captive care, “Liquid carbohydrates can be an important nutrient to supplement a diet of prey rather than just being an energy supplement during periods of starvation” (Wiggins & Wilder, 2022). These findings suggest nectar-style feeding may help growing spiders balance their nutrition, not only survive periods of starvation.

Protein, Fat, and Carbohydrates: Simple Explanation

Think of spider nutrition like this:

Protein - Protein helps build the body. It supports growth, molting, and tissue.

Fat - Fat provides stored energy.

Carbohydrates - Carbohydrates provide quick energy.

Wiggins and Wilder explain that carbohydrates and lipids are often primary energy sources, while protein is often used to build new tissue (Wiggins & Wilder, 2022).

This is why carbohydrates may be helpful. If a spider only gets high-protein prey, it may have to use some of that protein for energy instead of growth. Wiggins and Wilder found that spiders grew largest on high-protein diets when carbohydrates were also available (Wiggins & Wilder, 2022). For pet owners, this means the goal is not just “more protein.” The goal is balanced nutrition.

Safe Nectar and Carbohydrate Options

Nectar should never replace live prey. It is a supplement.

Best option: diluted sucrose water

This is closest to the research because the studies used sucrose solutions.

Gentle nectar recipe

Mix:

• 1 part white sugar

• 5-10 parts water

Example:

• 1 teaspoon sugar

• 5-10 teaspoons water

Offer a tiny amount on a Q-tip, cotton wick, or small piece of paper towel. Remove it after the spider drinks.

The nectar study used 30% sucrose, and the P. audax study used 20% sucrose (Nelson et al., 2001; Wiggins & Wilder, 2022). For routine captive care, weaker solutions may be safer and less sticky than the concentrations used in laboratory studies.

Diluted honey water

Honey can work as a nectar-style carbohydrate, but it is stickier and can mold faster.

Mix:

• 1 drop honey

• 8-10 drops water

or:

• 1 teaspoon honey

• 8-10 teaspoons water

Use only a tiny amount. Remove it quickly.

Fruit options

Fruit is not nutritionally identical to flower nectar, but tiny amounts can provide moisture and carbohydrates.

Best fruit options:

• watermelon

• grape

• blueberry

• strawberry

• apple

• pear

How to offer fruit safely:

• use a piece smaller than the spider’s abdomen

• expose the juicy side

• place it on a removable feeding ledge

• remove within 4-12 hours

• never let it mold or ferment

Avoid or use extreme caution with:

• citrus

• pineapple

• banana

• dried fruit

• fruit syrup

• canned fruit

• anything with additives

Image Source: TikTok thephidbizz (@thephidbizz)

How Often to Offer Nectar

These recommendations are cautious husbandry suggestions based on available research and keeper observations, not strict scientifically established feeding rules.

Stage	Nectar frequency
i2-i3 slings	Usually skip unless weak or dehydrated
i4-i5 slings	Tiny amount every 7-10 days
Juveniles	Tiny amount once weekly
Subadults	Once weekly unless in premolt
Adult males	Every 1-2 weeks
Adult females	Once weekly
Gravid females	Small amount weekly if active

Never force nectar. If the spider ignores it, remove it.

Feeding by Age and Instar

Instars are growth stages between molts. Exact timing varies by species, temperature, prey quality, and individual spider.

Molting Process in Phidippus regius by Mantis House

i1: Egg sac stage

The spiderlings are still in the egg sac or not independently feeding.

Feed: none

Nectar: none

i2: First independent sling

Feed every 1-2 days.

Best foods:

• Drosophila melanogaster

• tiny captive-bred springtails as backup only

Amount:

• 1-3 tiny fruit flies

Nectar:

• usually skip

• hydration is more important

i3: Tiny sling

Feed every 1-2 days.

Best foods:

• Drosophila melanogaster

• very small Drosophila hydei if the spider is large enough

Amount:

• 2-4 fruit flies

Nectar:

• tiny diluted sucrose or honey water only occasionally

i4: Growing sling

Feed every 2 days.

Best foods:

• Drosophila melanogaster

• Drosophila hydei

• tiny captive-bred flies

Amount:

• 2-5 fruit flies

Nectar:

• tiny amount every 7-10 days

i5: Small juvenile

Feed every 2-3 days.

Best foods:

• Drosophila hydei

• tiny bottle flies

• small captive-bred roaches

Amount:

• 1 small prey item

• or several fruit flies

Nectar:

• weekly, tiny amount

i6-i7: Juvenile

Feed every 3-5 days.

Best foods:

• bottle flies

• house flies

• small roaches

• occasional moths from captive sources

• small crickets only with caution

Amount:

• 1 prey item around 25-75% of spider body length

Nectar:

• once weekly

i8-ish: Subadult

Feed every 4-6 days.

Best foods:

• bottle flies

• house flies

• small roaches

• moths

• occasional soft-bodied larvae

Amount:

• 1 appropriately sized prey item

Nectar:

• once weekly unless in premolt

Adult male

Adult males often feed less frequently than juveniles and adult females. Jackson observed that adult male P. johnsoni seemed to feed less frequently than immatures and adult females (Jackson, 1977).

Feed every 5-10 days.

Best foods:

• flies

• moths

• small roaches

Amount:

• 1 moderate prey item

Nectar:

• every 1-2 weeks

Adult female

Adult females may need more energy, especially if gravid, but they are also easy to overfeed.

Feed every 4-7 days.

Best foods:

• bottle flies

• house flies

• roaches

• moths

Amount:

• 1-2 prey items depending on abdomen size

Nectar:

• once weekly

Abdomen Size: The Best Feeding Guide

A schedule is helpful, but abdomen size matters more.

Underfed or dehydrated

Signs:

• abdomen smaller than cephalothorax

• wrinkled abdomen

• low energy

What to do:

• offer water first

• offer appropriate prey

• check temperature and enclosure conditions

Healthy abdomen

Signs:

• abdomen slightly rounded

• not tight or stretched

• spider active and coordinated

What to do:

• continue the current feeding schedule

Overfed

Signs:

• very round abdomen

• tight/shiny abdomen

• trouble climbing

• difficulty climbing or increased falling

• less jumping

What to do:

• wait longer before feeding

• offer water, not prey

• avoid fatty feeders

Created by Rue Morgue

A realistic representation of abdomens based on Rue Morgue’s Jumping Spider Feeding Guide

Feeder Insect Guide

Best staples:

Fruit flies

Best for slings.

Use:

• Drosophila melanogaster for tiny slings

• Drosophila hydei for larger slings and juveniles

Bottle flies and house flies

Excellent for juveniles, subadults, and adults. They encourage natural hunting and are supported by the fact that flies were a major prey group in Jackson’s P. johnsoni study (Jackson, 1977).

Small roaches

Good variety feeder. Use appropriately sized captive-bred roaches.

Moths

Can provide enrichment if captive-bred or obtained from reliable captive sources. Never use wild moths.

Use with caution:

Crickets

Crickets can bite or stress spiders. Never leave crickets unattended or overnight, especially with a spider in premolt or post-molt. Should only be used by experienced keepers.

Mealworms

Use as occasional treats. They can burrow and have tougher bodies.

Waxworms

Use rarely. They are fatty and should not be a staple.

Premolt and Post-Molt Feeding

Premolt

Signs:

• hiding

• building a thick hammock

• refusing food

• dull color

• less activity

During premolt:

• remove prey

• do not disturb

• maintain humidity

• do not offer crickets

• avoid nectar unless the spider is out and active

Post-molt

After molting, the spider’s body and fangs need time to harden.

Wait before feeding:

• small slings: about 1-3 days

• juveniles: about 3-5 days

• adults/subadults: about 5-7 days

Offer water before prey.

What the Pet Community May Be Missing

1. Too much reliance on crickets and mealworms. Wild P. johnsoni ate a wide variety of prey, and flies were a major prey group (Jackson, 1977).

2. Not enough fly-based feeding. Flies are natural, stimulating, and safer than many aggressive prey items.

3. Not enough attention to carbohydrates. Nelson et al. found nectar feeding in many salticids, and Wiggins and Wilder found carbohydrate access improved growth, body fat, and survival in P. audax (Nelson et al., 2001; Wiggins & Wilder, 2022).

4. Feeding based on “will they eat it?” instead of “is it balanced?” A spider may accept a food that is not ideal as a staple.

5. Overfeeding. A very round abdomen is often seen online, but it is not always healthy.

Simple Beginner Feeding Plan

For a new owner, the easiest safe plan is:

Slings

• feed flightless fruit flies every 1-2 days

• use melanogaster first, then hydei

• mist lightly or provide safe hydration

• avoid large prey

Juveniles

• feed every 2-5 days

• use hydei, small bottle flies, and small roaches

• offer tiny nectar weekly

Adults

• feed every 4-10 days depending on sex and abdomen size

• use bottle flies, house flies, roaches, and occasional moths

• offer nectar weekly or every other week

• never feed wild-caught insects

Conclusion

Research on captive jumping spider nutrition is still limited, and many husbandry practices combine scientific evidence with long-term keeper observations. 

Jumping spider nutrition should be based on more than convenience. Research shows that Phidippus johnsoni eats a wide variety of prey in the wild, with flies making up a major prey group (Jackson, 1977). Research also shows that nectar feeding occurs in many jumping spiders and that sucrose is preferred over plain water in laboratory tests (Nelson et al., 2001). Finally, Phidippus audax spiderlings grew larger, heavier, and had better survival and body fat when given access to liquid carbohydrates along with prey (Wiggins & Wilder, 2022).

An ideal captive diet involves more than simply offering live insects. It must include all of the following:

• safe captive-bred prey

• correct prey size

• variety

• hydration

• occasional nectar-style carbohydrates.

That approach better respects jumping spiders as active, intelligent predators with more complex nutritional needs than many beginners realize.

Works Cited

Jackson, Robert R. “Prey of the Jumping Spider Phidippus johnsoni (Araneae: Salticidae).” The Journal of Arachnology, vol. 5, 1977, pp. 145–149.

Nelson, Ximena J., Simon D. Pollard, Robert R. Jackson, G. B. Edwards, and Alberto T. Barrion. “Jumping Spiders (Araneae: Salticidae) That Feed on Nectar.” Journal of Zoology, vol. 255, 2001, pp. 25–29.

Wiggins, Will D., and Shawn M. Wilder. “Carbohydrates Complement High-Protein Diets to Maximize the Growth of an Actively Hunting Predator.” Ecology and Evolution, vol. 12, 2022, e9150.

Josh’s Frogs. “Producing Fruit Fly Culture: Drosophila melanogaster.” Josh’s Frogs.

Ovipost. “Never Feed Wild Crickets to Your Pet.” Ovipost, 2025.